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[John Long]

I also run a SewQuiet 5000 and have been pleased. I did however modify my interrupter blade to increase low end controllability.

John

[Cody]

I also had a sew quiet. I use the one my
Consew came with now, but have a sewquiet new in the box Incase. @John Long can you explain this modification? I know there was something about making a gradient of light to darker shading to trick the computer inside.

[miket]

I also had a sew quiet. I use the one my
Consew came with now, but have a sewquiet new in the box Incase. @John Long can you explain this modification? I know there was something about making a gradient of light to darker shading to trick the computer inside.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/4 ... d-control/

Here is a link I found about the modification.
I have not tried it yet but plan to soon.

It seems this is a common issue with these type motors.

I have gotten better with mine by changing treadle location and practice but 1 slip of the foot and its on.

[miket]

This is what I mean by stitch by stitch.
He has total control over speed down to 1 stitch per every second or so.

[John Long]

I also had a sew quiet. I use the one my
Consew came with now, but have a sewquiet new in the box Incase. @John Long can you explain this modification? I know there was something about making a gradient of light to darker shading to trick the computer inside.

Here is a thread on HotRodders.com forum Cody. You will see I was pretty involved in the thread at the time. I think reading the thread and watching the video will answer all your questions.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/servo- ... 22180.html

John

[miket]

I also had a sew quiet. I use the one my
Consew came with now, but have a sewquiet new in the box Incase. @John Long can you explain this modification? I know there was something about making a gradient of light to darker shading to trick the computer inside.

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/4 ... d-control/

Here is a link I found about the modification.
I have not tried it yet but plan to soon.

It seems this is a common issue with these type motors.

I have gotten better with mine by changing treadle location and practice but 1 slip of the foot and its on.

It seems the video in my link no longer works

Also while reading the link to the Hotrodder thread it says the dial type like I have are not optical so this wont work on mine.

[John Long]

@miket, I'm not sure if that is true or not. It will be a simple thing to take out four screws and look inside. If there is a light and interrupter vein, it should work.

[miket]

@miket, I'm not sure if that is true or not. It will be a simple thing to take out four screws and look inside. If there is a light and interrupter vein, it should work.

This is what I found.
Looks to be a magnet

Last pic is arm, 2nd pic is the 2 screws that hols the sensor next to arm, 3rd pic is sensor and arm

[miket]

My 50mm pulley came now I need a 39" belt.
Where can I get one that wont take 3 weeks like the ones I found on ebay?

Gonna try auto parts store tomorrow.

[Tom Mann]

Yep local auto parts should help I got mine from autozone. I have the same Consew motor as the one you linked to on amazon , at first it was a little buggy so i put in the highest speed and ran it fast for a bit on some scrap material the went back to a lower speed setting and it was a lot better then went with the 45 mm pulley and that made it even better . It is still not a stitch by stitch machine but it is manageable

[miket]

Yep local auto parts should help I got mine from autozone. I have the same Consew motor as the one you linked to on amazon , at first it was a little buggy so i put in the highest speed and ran it fast for a bit on some scrap material the went back to a lower speed setting and it was a lot better then went with the 45 mm pulley and that made it even better . It is still not a stitch by stitch machine but it is manageable

Thanks Tom

Thats what they told me to do, run it hard when I can and it will loosen up.
It is better than when I 1st got it. Cant wait to try it with the new pulley.

[miket]

Got the 50mm pulley on and did a little sewing last night.
It is an improvement but as others said still not smooth on the low end.
But at least when I pass the sweet spot it takes off a lot slower.
With some practice Im sure I'll get better but I had higher expectations for the servo.

I have seen Johns video for the Fabricator and how controllable that motor is.
I may end up going with the Sailrite motor of it can be adapted to a v pulley.

[Kra z Bill]

I have the sailrite motor and it comes with both, a v belt pulley and a geared pulley. and it works great.

[LoopOut]

New guy, and haven’t contributed anything yet, figured this might be my chance.
This could get long winded.
I was in the same situation not long ago. Wanted a servo for stitch by stitch sewing.
Ended up ordering one of the generic rebranded 550w brushed motors. My particular model is a FESM 550 I believe.
Anyhow. I had done tons of searching on how to slow it down and have gotten it there. It takes a bit of fussing around but costs nothing. After a bit of time, I can step the machine one stitch at a time. Maybe not 100% reliably all the time, but pretty damn good.
I have no pics, so some imagination will be needed.
This motor has the magnet sensor for the speed control. The trick is to take the arm off, pop the magnet out, and then remove some material behind the magnet. The idea is to have the magnet laying at an increasing angle bottom to top. That way, as the arm moves to start the motor, the magnet does not just all of a sudden “fully appear” in front of the sensor. Because it is leaned away at the starting point, the magnetic strength is less, so it ramps in slower. I hope that makes sense, cause I’m by no means an electronics guy.
The next thing I did was re drill a new hole in the foot pedal/treadle. I actually drilled a few for testing differences but settled in a hole about 1-1/2” from stock. The hole I’m referring to is the arm/rod linkage hole. It’s probably out near the top end of the treadle now. Drill a new hole moving the pivot closer to the pivot point of the treadle itself. It seemed counter intuitive to me a first, as I thought that would make it act quicker, but it worked great.
Any questions and I will try and answer if I can.

[miket]

Thanks @LoopOut that all makes sense

[BigRig]

@LoopOut ,

Thats cool. I would have been to chicken to ever play with my servo motor.

[TedP]

I recently bought the same servo motor for a Consew 206RB-4 (15 years old). The motor I bought is an 'Enduro SM-550', which *may* be what Consew sells as as their '550' motor. (they look exactly the same)

I too noticed the slow speed was a bit tricky. I have not tried the 'magnet' thing as explained above, but I did a pulley swap and can get to a stitch-by-stitch sewing.

I put a 50mm (2") pulley on the motor and a 150MM (6") pulley on the machine to get a 3:1 speed reduction. I also found that the servo motor does not really like to run at the very lowest speed setting (per the dial on the motor), so I set it to about 1/3 of the speed range.

Of course, my machine, being well broken in might be different than a brand new 206RB in terms of resistance.

Anyway, I think that with a 550 watt servo motor, you may still need speed reduction via a pulley swap. Wondering if that magnet adjustment is worth trying though . . .

[John]

Great Information @LoopOut Welcome to the forum!

[Blucher]

Hello, all, new guy here. I thought that I had posted about this topic, but I don't see my post, so maybe not.

I recently bought an old Adler 67-GK373 with a Consew 550 servomotor, and faced the same issue. I considered making a jackshaft gear reduction arrangement (I also do welding/fabriation) but first I tried an easier solution: What I did was decrease the size of the drive pulley from 3.15" to 2.25" diameter... the driven sheave on the machine head was 4" diameter, so with a 3450 rpm servomotor, this gives me a max speed at the head of about 1940 spm. (I believe my machine has a max speed of 2000 spm, so this should be about right.)

I also took a piece of 1/2" aluminum tubing about 12" long, flattened and drilled holes at the ends, and attached that to the "throttle" lever arm on the servo motor, and adjusted the linkage to the pedal. This effectively tripled (quadrupled? I forget) the length of the throttle lever arm, meaning that you have to move the pedal about 3 or 4 times as far to reach the same throttle position. (I needed to fiddle with the linkage to the pedal a bit to find the "sweet spots" for "no throttle" and "full throttle.")

This has allowed me to get 1 or 2 stitches per second if I'm careful, though I need a bit more practice, especially since I'm accustomed to using a knee throttle on my other machines (and no knee lifter) so I keep hitting the knee lifter when I actually want throttle! Not sure it will have enough torque/punch to go through heavy leather (that might require the jackshaft to gear it down some) but for heavy fabric and vinyl, it seems manageable – plus, I can leave the speed knob turned up on the motor with far less risk of it running away when I don't want it to.

One other thing that I did, which I found on the Internet, is I used Gorilla glue to glue a tennis ball under my pedal near the pivot point. This acts like a compression spring, giving me a little more resistance to prevent me accidentally pushing the pedal down too far. I suspect I may want to remove this when I get more coordination in my leg/foot for throttle control, but it should be easy enough to remove.

Hope this might help someone. I'm new to upholstery and walking-foot style machines, so I'm looking forward to learning from you folks...this looks like a great forum for that, and I thank The Lucky Needle and the forum admins for making this resource available.

[LesRutland]

I have an old Juki LU-563 that I fitted a Consew csm 3000 . It is the 1 hp motor and I put a 45mm pulley on it. Setting the control between 30 and 50% I can get one stitch at a time. I love it. The Juki came with a clutch type motor that was impossible to control.

Servo motors are used on CNC machines and have a very tight power curve while giving very precise control. The control of the motor is different but the power output is the same. The sewing machine motor is controlled by a "Hall Effect" sensor that essentially tells the motor how many steps to take and how fast to do it. I only know all this because my brother is an Electronics Engineer.