Post pictures of your finished work and current projects.
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By Cale
#2255
My learning project is to completely change the interior on my 1992 civic Hatch.Image
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By Cale
#2256
Back seats that I learned how to sew on.
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20170715_165711.jpg
20170715_165711.jpg (1.41 MiB) Viewed 12415 times
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By Cale
#2257
My first attempt at a leather wrapped, hand sewn shift knob.
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20180808_162254.jpg
20180808_162254.jpg (844.88 KiB) Viewed 12416 times
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By Cody
#2258
Both are looking real good! Post more pics as you complete more of the civic!
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By John
#2259
looks really good especially for your first go!
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By BigRig
#2260
@Cale
Way to go man! I appreciate all that effort! Are you sure your not a stitching Pro that shifting knob looks professional to me.
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By Cale
#2266
That gap between the leather will let you know that I am not a stitching pro. :rofl:
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By Cale
#2281
I have been trying to sew the front bucket seat covers but can't quite get it right.
The first seat I made was too big. (Pictuerd) I don't that I allowed for the stretch from the original seat pattern nor did I put scrim in the side bolsters.
For the second seat I tried a technique that I saw cechflo using but apparently the vinyl that I am using stretches excessively because it ended up too short in the bolsters.
So, I am adjusting and going on to #3 seat cover.
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20180610_164108.jpg
20180610_164108.jpg (1.44 MiB) Viewed 12384 times
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By BigRig
#2287
@Cale,

Stick to the first technique that you were using it was most likely vinyl related. If there was foam in the bolsters before then just glue foam onto the seat foam to fill the foam void and your cover should fit better. Carefull stretching that vinyl, stretching it sewing will show up in the finished outcome as a stretch.
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By John
#2292
Its take practice man. Youll get it.

I recommend having at least 1/4" scrim on all your pieces. Depending on the look your going for. But usually I will have 1/2" on all the top pieces and 1/4" on everything else.
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By BigRig
#2295
@Cale,

Take Johns advice on the 1/4" on everything else. The last seat cover I did being hesitant to spend anymore on the cover I did not use foam and the outcome was not as smooth and neat looking as usual.
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By Cale
#2335
Sew, I wanted to try to do some diamonds. Well, this is what I did. Not great but not bad for my first time to try this. I might even try to do my door inserts like this.
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20180812_125154.jpg
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By BigRig
#2336
@Cale,

I love your stitching Cale! What fabric are you using for those inserts?
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By John
#2337
@Cale A little trick to help keep you straight. When you first start you stitch. Put a ruler or straight edge up against your foot and make sure your lined up straight from the start.
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By BigRig
#2343
@Cale
It looks to me like you need a Kenmore machine. I do not know what you are sewing with but I will pack up my Kenmore for you and if you want to pack up that machine of yours to send to me we can do a trade! We are here to help :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:
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By Cale
#2344
@BigRig I don't really know. It is just something cool that I got at my local fabric shop.

@John That is a great idea. I am still learning how to control my machine. The Ls-Z just grabs and goes. I am trying to learn how to control the speed of the machine. That is the only thing that I don't like about it is that the speed is hard to control.
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By John
#2345
What kind of motor does it have? I thought those machines had servo motors. If it does you should be able to adjust the speed.
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By Cale
#2346
@John Sailrite does have a servo motor for the machine. When I bought the machine I was unaware of the differences and why needed it.
Two things that I have learned is that a servo motor is neccessary for tight, precise sewing and the need for the knee operated presser foot. These are the two main reasons that I am looking at maybe adding a Fabricator machine.
But, even if I get a Fabricator I will still probably get the servo for my LSZ. Even in my limited knowledge, experience and volume I can see a need for more than one machine.
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By Kra z Bill
#2347
Sailrite sells a table for the LSZ1 that has the workhorse servo motor for $499.00. But as it comes from the factory the LSZ1 is a portable machine and has the same motor as an old Singer Portable, so no real control over the speed. When converting it to go in the table it calls for the removal of the factory installed motor and hooked up to the servo motor. The only reason I know this is because I have a knock off of the LS1 (straight stitch only) and I am in the process of converting mine to a table now. Although I can't afford the $499 in one lump sum. I had a table for a New Dearborn Model 9 Blind Stitch machine that was built in the 30s. I removed the machine and cut the hole for the machine, unfortunately the pressed wood from the 30s didn't take very well to this cutting, it fell apart and would not hold the machine. My younger brother was a cabinet maker for 35 years and later today I am going to his house and we are making a Table top to fit my machine. As a Disabled Vet I only get paid once a month -on the first- and I will be buying the workhorse motor from sailrite for $196.00.

@Cale
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