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[Merc1950]

Hey Guys, new to the forum. I took Johns beginner course and I just bought a machine about a year ago, having issues dialing this machine in. I bought it from a guy that was doing banners, I got the impression he didn't need to have the machine fine tuned for a proper stitch. I had to retime it, replace a few parts, etc. 1) I can not seems to get the stitch length I want, in the pic, this is as long of a stitch I can get. 2) The stitch seems to be crocked, looks like a leather stitch not a straight stitch I'm after. I'm going to be upholstering my 50 Mercury but I need to get this machine dialed in. Thanks.

[Adam12]

Few details needed, what size needle and thread? How thick is your stack of material? Are your reverse stitches the same length as your forward stitches?

[Merc1950]

Needle size on box DPX35D, Thread is Serabond 30 T90 V92 (hope that helps). reverse stitch is the same.

[Merc1950]

The material is vinyl folded, just practice pieces, thanks for the help

[ctmk2]

I’m no professional but:

Stitch length looks on par as I only get about 5 stitches/inch out of my 206RB… and it tends to get shorter the thicker the material running under the foot.

I could be wrong but I believe the later models started to get longer stitch lengths (RB-3 and up with the higher foot lift) perhaps someone else can confirm or deny this…

As for servicing I use a manual from a seiko which was a copy of the consew and it’s not the typical crappy photocopy manual that you get with the consew… it helped me dial in my machine after I paid a “professional “ with terrible results.

https://www.supsew.com/download/Seiko/S ... Manual.pdf

Edit: my stitches also stagger as yours do….

Hope this helps a bit
-Dave

[Adam12]

The original needle system is 135-17. DP-35 is a pfaff/adler system, not a big deal, they will work for you they are just shorter. BUT when the DP-35 has a "D" behind it, suggests that it is a leather point needle. Getting some ball point needles should help clean up the crooked stitches. Wonder if they gave you the wrong needles, hope it was not the reason your timing was off. Check your reverse lever for slop and make sure that nothing is stopping it from reaching the lowest point in the slot. Sometimes this piece is jacked up or installed wrong.

[Merc1950]

Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it. I'll get the right needle and look over the machine again.

[Merc1950]

I replaced the needle but I'm still not getting a straight stitch. it's not an undesirable looking stitch. I just prefer it straight. Dave stated that his machine does not sew a straight stitch as well, IDK if this is just how this machine is or not???

[Adam12]

Some of it is just the nature of forming a lock stitch but play with your tension and see if it helps. The leather point can needles exaggerate the crooked look. Just curious, did you stick with the DP-35 system just in a ball point?

[LLeeT]

I very seldom get a straight stitch on thick pieces. If just sewing two pieces of vinyl together, it is pretty straight.

[Merc1950]

Some of it is just the nature of forming a lock stitch but play with your tension and see if it helps. The leather point can needles exaggerate the crooked look. Just curious, did you stick with the DP-35 system just in a ball point?

not yet, will need to order, some.

[Merc1950]

One other issue. I've watched several videos on threading this machine. When they get to the thread controller, its suppose to make an audible click, as the thread is pulled up on the spring, mine does not, is mine out of adjustment? I don't see how this works. Thoughts?

[Merc1950]

Some of it is just the nature of forming a lock stitch but play with your tension and see if it helps. The leather point can needles exaggerate the crooked look. Just curious, did you stick with the DP-35 system just in a ball point?

Adam, can you take a look at my last post and let me know if your thread controller clicks and if so is there a possible adjustments? appreciate it

[Adam12]

There is a little hook right here

Thread comes around the bottom and should "snap" into the little hook as you pull up on the thread then through the check spring. Only real adjusting on that piece is the check spring tension and position and if anything is fouled up or suspect, the easiest thing is to just replace the whole tension assembly.

[Merc1950]

There is a little hook right here

Thread comes around the bottom and should "snap" into the little hook as you pull up on the thread then through the check spring. Only real adjusting on that piece is the check spring tension and position and if anything is fouled up or suspect, the easiest thing is to just replace the whole tension assembly.

Thanks again

[Rhonda]

mine dont click either , but the consew dont come with good instruction manual.

[Merc1950]

mine dont click either , but the consew dont come with good instruction manual.

I replaced the thread tensioner today, still doesn't click. IDK what this accomplishes, if anything and I think I made things worse. I'll have to spent some more time dialing things back in. yes, the manual is terrible.

[Adam12]

As long as the thread is set in that little hook i referenced it should be fine. Overall tension and check spring will need to be adjusted on a new one.

[Slideruleracer]

Did you ever figure this out? I have a 226 that is doing the same thing.

[MalcolmM]

A bit off topic but leather needles come in diamond point, left knife or right knife point to solve some of these problems when stitching in very thick leather.