About us
The Lucky Needle is an online resource for the upholstery community. Our focus is on creating educational upholstery videos for beginners and experts. Read more...
I find mine is so controllable with the foot pedal it really doesn’t matter what the max speed is set to.
Can it be done like a car headrest bit with a zipper across the the face of the round piece
Can you drill out the rivets and replace them with countersunk style bolt heads and nylock nuts with washers?
I use a 1541 as my main machine sewing marine and automotive vinyl, never heard of an issue or seen anything on other forums.
A magnet will tell you if it’s steel
No snap ring, I ended up cutting it off and putting in a zipper on the new one, no amount of heating and pulling was working but I’m sure somehow it was pulled on.
I’ve tried and didn’t get it ….but it seems like it’s the only plausible way. Maybe a hour in direct sunlight will soften it up enough to budge. Hate to be the guy at the factory putting these on a day :j
I can’t see any way to remove the armrest cover without cutting it, no hidden zippers, Velcro or overlaps. I’m stumped
I was just going to type in what Malcom just said, sometimes I like to move the topstitch out from the seam a bit, 1/2” seam allowance gives me that extra bit you sometimes need
I have used 1/8” weed whip line for making it on non criticize pieces, seems to work just fine.
Let me google that for you. https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=rope+chains&l=1
Sometimes changing the angle of the stapler helps.
I’d walk before it starts getting complicated, unless the customer understands there a good possibility there will be extra charges depending on how they fit.
Looking good….. but what are you soaring
You can use a stapler and pull them out as you approach each one or keep them close but not on the sew line and remove them later. Double sided tape may work but I find staples to be easier.
Well done, looks awesome
If you have been sewing through a lot of basting tape the needle can become gummed up and the thread won’t pass through correctly causing problems like this
I agree a 138 or larger thread would look better, I wouldn’t lock the stitch, instead pull the top thread to the back side and tie them together for the start and the finish. That way you won’t be able to tell where you started or finished.
When I make a tube like that I sew a length of paracord on one end to feed through first….. to give me something to pull the rest through
Usually at the patterning stage I put hash marks ( every 2” - 3” or so) to mark the cuts of little V’s into the seam allowance of both pieces, that way you can keep things lined up quite a distance away. I’m with you on the relentless pursuit of perfection and drive myself a tad crazy chasing it to ...
Looks excellent and if he is willing to do that th[…]
Hi, I'm a newbie here, and I'm trying to reuphols[…]